Monday, February 18, 2008

Fashion Week: Tuleh

The Tuleh collection recalled the same carefree childlike joy of opening up that mega-box of Crayolas and finding the wealth of colors inside. Designer Brian Bradley delivered a collection that's vivid, witty, with indulgent color splashed over a wearable collection filled with luxe details.

The collection began with a suite of pale looks in white and cream, moved into neutrals accented by metallics, then celebrated the spectrum of the rainbow.

Coats were layered over dresses and separates, cinched by small belts. Sleeveless fur coats were belted over dresses or worn open over wide-leg pants. Wide circle skirts paired with sweaters, cardigans, and belted jacket and skirt sets recalled the optimism and modesty of the 1950s.

Whimsical accesories -- brightly colored fedora hats and suede boots, heavy gold chains and oversize slouchy metallic clutch bags -- added additional sparkle.

Our favorite looks included a long camel sleeveless belted coat with the surprise of a bright orange fur collar, a pink wool skirt and 3/4-sleeved top topped with a purple fedora, and a close-fitting striped metallic dress topped by a layer of black belted tulle. -- Julie Yee

Photos from top: Tuleh Fall 2008 collection.

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Fashion Week: Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch's Fall 2008 collection recalled both a minimalist sculptor's use of form and a modernist painter's sense of light and color. The collection seemed to be conceived around a variety of sculptural -- almost geometric -- silhouettes.

Color crept into the collection -- first, as minimal accents against a suite of all-black looks. The palette gradually lightened to reveal strong patterns of soft grays and browns with yellow, orange and turquoise accents. The collection ended in a celebration of bright color with silk color-blocked dresses with flowing lines.

Short dresses and skirts were shaped into volumetric forms while flowing dresses were draped over the body like flat planes floating in space. The shoulder was a strong focal point of the collection. Highly structured shoulders topped short, volumetric or flowing, floor-length skirts. Layered dresses with high collars and cinched waists had half-sleeves cleverly attached to expose bare shoulders. Bias-cut shirts and color blocked dresses in strong geometric shapes and patterns were cut broadly, draping over and fanning out from the shoulders, creating a planar effect.

Overall, Herchcovitch delivered an interesting and creative collection unafraid of experimentation. -- Julie Yee.

Photos from top: Alexandre Herchcovitch Fall 2008 collection.

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Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Fashion Week Scandals! (and other happenings)

A Marc Jacobs show is not a Marc Jacobs show without its share of scandals.

Just when the fashion press was fed up with the ever-postponed MJ show start time (I didn't make this up; New York Magazine and the NY Times have written extensively on this matter), WWD reported today New York Attorney General Andrew Cuomo has leveled a multicount indictment against 69th Regiment Armory former superintendent James Jackson. Jackson allegedly extorted money and goods from his vendors -- such as the likes of MJ and the Ramsay Art Fairs, WWD reports.

A little bit of background: Seaons after seasons, MJ and Marc by MJ shows occurred at the 69th Regiment Armory; and seasons after seasons, MJ's shows were conspicuously delayed due to "samples issues" or "key pieces not yet arrived" from the designer's Soho studio.

Lost samples everytime? I think not... There has to be something way more complicated than that. Now that criminal extortion charges are revealed, I have a tiny suspicion that the real victim here might be the Mighty Marc himself. Don't blame the man for postponed shows. At least he delivers EVERY TIME.

You can read the WWD story here.

On another note, Anne Bowen, whose show is slated for this friday, Feb. 8, will be postponed due to an illness within her family.

Interested parties may email for images when they become available.

Sunday, February 3, 2008

Fashion Week: ThreeAsFour

ThreeAsFour's Fall 2008 collection uses their signature three-dimensional approach "to explore the architectural traditions of ancient Russia," the show's program notes. How this translate onto the runway is a fabulous collection that continues their use in circular seams and intricately layered asymmetrical pieces that flow with the body, and an introduction to roping details around the neck.

Black, grey, white and silver made up the core of this collection with additional hints of light green and cobalt blue. The use of soft fabrics such as silk chiffon, silk charmeuse are ever present, and and paired with stronger wintry fabrics such as wool crepe, shiny corduroy, and lurex-woven wools.

It is refreshing to see strong tailoring such as trench coat done with the desigers' signature circular cutouts and draping. ThreeAsFour's suits are cut long and lean, honing to a menswear, Saville Row influence in unexpected fabric such as silver corduroy.

But it is their dresses that provide the most appeal to this collection. Ethereal fabrics such as silks and chiffon are delicately draped in complex asymmetrical layers. A silver mixed silk dress that closed the show featured mind-boggling circular cascades that flow down the hems.

Coming out from the much-hyped CFDA contest, it will be interesting to see what ThreeAsFour has installed for us in the future. -- Edith Moy

Photos from top: ThreeAsFour Fall 2008 collection.

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Fashion Week: BCBG Max Azria

"Modern femininity" with a "confident sense of abandon" is the inspiration behind BCBG's fall 2008 collection. How this translates onto the runway is a collection of soft feminine pieces that use soft, neutral tones mixed with layering, pleating and bustier details.

Max Azria opened the runway with a slew of dresses that give play to the woman's shoulders and flows naturally with her lithe silhouette. Layer by layer, pieces of silk crepe framed around the neck and shoulders, drawing attention to the upper body while the rest flows simply with a little cinched leather belt at the waist.

His cocktail pieces are more interesting, with a fuller, more volumnous construction at the skirt and a tighter, almost corsetted bustier at the top. The use of satin, silk crepe, and wool twill are ever present in shaded, neutral tones.

These pieces remind me of Balenciaga's Spring 2008 collection without Nicolas Ghesquière strong construction. It seems to say the outer-pieces are strong, but yet inside there's a soft, feminine woman living within. -- Edith Moy

Photos from top: BCBGMaxAzria Fall 2008 collection.

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Fashion Week: Salvador Trinidad

What would a New York "Bright Young Things" wear if her life consisted of fabulous museum parties and art galleries openings? This is the inspiration that Parsons-trained Salvador Trinidad worked with for his Fall 2008 collection. A young collection that exudes elegance and modernity, Trinidad re-created outfits for a girl that shows a sharp sense of refinement and ease.

The base of his color palette lies within his use of neutral gray wool twills, soft champagne and burgundy silk charmeuse this season, with the occasional gold jacquards peeking out from pencil skirts.

Trinidad's shapes are streamlined and lady-like. His play on mixing different textures of fabric -- such as mixing jacquards with delicate silk crepe, or doing a wool/mohair/silk car coat with tweed high-waisted pencil skirt -- defines a sense of playfulness and modernity.

This is a collection not for the downtown girl, but for the uptown girl with a downtown-ease at heart. -- Edith Moy

See Salvador Trinidad's previous collections here.

Fashion Week: Nabe by Victorya Hong

Victorya Hong's Na-Be collection proved that there is life after being eliminated from Bravo TV's famed Project Runway, and it's rocking to an 80s beat at Fashion Week. Hong's packed show -- with current Runway contestant Christian Siriano at its presence (he lent his sewing skills to this collection) -- featured outfits that showed flair, focus and a fondness for all things 80s.

A lean, youthful silhouette showcased a retro palette of off-white, gray, blue and lots of black, with welcome flashes of neon yellow and purple. Looks "sampled" 80s details -- shawl collars adorned both simply cut sleeveless tunic tops and dresses.

Jackets were worn with cuffs rolled up, exposing contrasting lining, and were layered over simple tops and short shirts or pleated front slim trousers. Waistlines were clearly defined, cinched in with wide black belts.

Dresses were the strongest pieces in the collection, including a royal purple satin sleeveless dress with low cut shawl collar and a little black dress with a surprise neon yellow criss-cross strap back.

With an ambitious collection that showed humor, nostalgia and maturity, Hong has made it work". -- Julie Yee

Photos from top: Nabe by Victorya Hong

Photo source: Getty Images